The bay at Assos on Kefalonia, pastel houses around a sheltered turquoise cove with small boats moored off the beach and the wooded hills of the isthmus behind

Where to stay in Kefalonia, base by base

Eight bases, the hotels in each, and the drive from every one of them to Myrtos, Melissani and the airport.

On an island of 780 square kilometres with a bus network built for residents, where you sleep decides what you see. Argostoli is the practical base, central and walkable, with no beach of its own. Lassi has the sand and the airport twelve minutes away. Fiskardo and Assos are the beautiful end of Kefalonia and an hour and a half from the runway, which is fine for two slow nights and punishing for a week of sightseeing.

The eight bases, and the hotels in each

Every village below has hotels, food and a beach within reach. What separates them is how much of the island each one puts inside an hour. Distances are on our map of Kefalonia, and the transfers from the runway are on the Kefalonia airport page.

Argostoli at night on Kefalonia, the lit waterfront and the houses on the hillside reflected in the still water of the Koutavos lagoon, seen from the De Bosset causeway
Argostoli from the De Bosset causeway. The capital is the one place on the island where the evening happens without a drive. Photo: Pexels.

For a first visit, and without a car

Argostoli

15 min from the airport · 45 min to Myrtos

The capital, the bus station and the only base that works without a car. The 1953 earthquake took the old town, so this is a grid of rebuilt streets around Vallianos Square, a pedestrian shopping lane and a long waterfront on the Koutavos lagoon where the loggerhead turtles come in behind the fishing boats. What it does not have is a beach: Lassi's sand is four kilometres away. Everything else favours it, including restaurants that stay open out of season.

  • Kefalonia GrandMid-range

    Kefalonia Grand

    Argostoli waterfront

    From

    $95

    Straight on the harbour front, a short walk from Vallianos Square and the restaurants. Rooms are compact, so the sea-view balcony earns its difference.

    • On the waterfront
    • Walk to everything
    • Harbour-view terrace

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Avra Private SuitesMid-range

    Avra Private Suites

    Argostoli

    Suites rather than hotel rooms, for a couple who want the town at the door and more space than the Grand gives.

    • Suites only
    • In the centre
    • Adults friendly

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • The Alley Boutique HotelMid-range

    The Alley Boutique Hotel

    Argostoli, off the waterfront

    From

    $89

    Twenty nine rooms on a side street a block behind the front, with a garden patio, a bar and a small spa. The quieter version of the same location.

    • 29 rooms
    • Garden patio
    • Spa
    • Central

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Panorama Fanari Studios and ApartmentsValue

    Panorama Fanari Studios and Apartments

    Fanari, north end of town

    From

    $67

    Self-contained apartments out towards the lighthouse, which suits a family that wants a kitchen and has a car.

    • Kitchens
    • Sea views
    • Near the lighthouse

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • AenosMid-range

    Aenos

    Vallianos Square

    From

    $73

    The value option in the centre, on the main square itself. No pool, no view, and you walk out into the town.

    • On the main square
    • No pool
    • Breakfast

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
Rows of blue sunbeds and straw parasols on the sand at Makris Gialos beach in Lassi, Kefalonia, with pine trees above the beach and scooters parked on the path
Makris Gialos at Lassi, organised down to the last row. This is the trade the headland offers: sand and water sports rather than a village. Photo: Sztudva Gyöngyi, CC BY-SA 3.0.

For the beach, with the town nearby

Lassi

12 min from the airport · 55 min to Myrtos

The headland west of Argostoli, and the closest thing Kefalonia has to a resort strip. Makris Gialos and Platis Gialos are its two beaches, both sand, both organised, with water sports through the summer, and the road above them carries the tavernas, the mini markets and the car hire desks. It was built for the charter season and it reads like it. But the capital is ten minutes away for dinner, the runway is twelve, and no other base gives you both.

  • White Rocks HotelLuxury

    White Rocks Hotel

    Above Platis Gialos

    From

    $244

    The beach hotel of the island: a pine slope beside Platis Gialos with its own small cove, rooms and bungalows in the grounds, and adults-only infinity pool suites at the top.

    • Own small beach
    • Bungalows
    • Adults-only suites
    • 10 min to the airport

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Thalassa Boutique HotelMid-range

    Thalassa Boutique Hotel

    Lassi, adults only

    From

    $107

    Low-rise buildings in gardens with two pools and sea views, and Makris Gialos about ten minutes on foot. The couples choice in Lassi.

    • Adults only
    • Two pools
    • Swim-up rooms
    • Walk to the beach

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Dionysos Village ResortMid-range

    Dionysos Village Resort

    Lassi

    From

    $76

    A low-rise resort spread through gardens a few minutes from both Lassi beaches, with self parking and a pool. The plain, workable option on the headland.

    • In Lassi
    • Gardens
    • Free parking

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
Avithos beach on the south coast of Kefalonia, sand and shingle under low ochre cliffs with clear turquoise water and a few villas on the headland beyond
Avithos, on the flat coast below the runway. Sand, two tavernas and none of the crowding of Lassi, in exchange for needing the car every time. Photo: Pexels.

For an early flight, and quiet

Svoronata and the airport coast

5 min from the airport · 1 h to Myrtos

The flat strip of coast south of the airport, around Svoronata, Kourkoumelata and Pesada, is where you stay for an early flight, a late landing or a week with a car and no interest in a strip. Ammes and Avithos are its beaches. Nothing here is walkable except the sand in front of you, Argostoli is fifteen minutes, and the small boat to Zakynthos leaves from the end of this coast in season.

  • Electra Kefalonia HotelLuxury

    Electra Kefalonia Hotel

    Svoronata

    From

    $185

    Modern, facing the sea, minutes from the terminal, with a pool, a spa and a handful of private-pool suites. The best answer to a six in the morning departure.

    • Minutes from the runway
    • Private-pool suites
    • Spa
    • Walk to Ammes

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Leivatho HotelMid-range

    Leivatho Hotel

    Above Avithos beach

    From

    $165

    Good value and family-friendly in a rural setting, rooms with kitchen facilities and a pool looking at the sea. Avithos and its tavernas are five minutes downhill.

    • Kitchen facilities
    • Pool with sea views
    • Family-friendly

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
The hill village of Vlachata above Lourdas on the south coast of Kefalonia, red-roofed houses scattered through olive groves on a steep slope under the flank of Mount Ainos
Vlachata, on the slope above Lourdas. The restaurants are up here and the beach is down there, which is the whole argument about this coast. Photo: C messier, CC BY-SA 3.0.

For a quiet beach week

Lourdata and the south coast

25 min from the airport · 1 h to Myrtos

Lourdata, also written Lourdas, sits below the flank of Mount Ainos, with a long beach, beach bars and tavernas along the water, and the village itself up the hill with more restaurants. Trapezaki and Katelios continue the same coast east. The hill is the catch: unless your room is on the front, the walk back up from the beach is a climb and a car is close to compulsory. What you buy is a south-facing beach with almost none of the traffic of the Argostoli side.

  • F Zeen KefaloniaLuxury

    F Zeen Kefalonia

    Above Lourdas beach, adults only

    From

    $244

    Built into the hillside in thick gardens, with three pools, yoga, hiking and a wellness programme most Greek island resorts do not attempt. The beach is five minutes downhill.

    • Adults only
    • Three pools
    • Private pools
    • Wellness programme

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Villa dei SogniMid-range

    Villa dei Sogni

    Katelios

    From

    $42

    Near the beach at Katelios, five minutes from the sand and the little marina, with laundry and parking. A quiet week on the south-east coast for the price of a room in town.

    • Near Katelios beach
    • Free parking
    • Quiet village

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Utopia Resort and SpaMid-range

    Utopia Resort and Spa

    Katelios

    Five minutes from Katelios beach and its marina, with a spa and parking, at the eastern end of this coast where the hill finally flattens.

    • Spa
    • Near the beach
    • Free parking

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
The long sand beach at Skala in the south-east of Kefalonia, a line of red and blue parasols at the far end and pine woods running down to the back of the beach
Skala, the longest beach on Kefalonia, with pines behind it and the resort a few steps inland. Photo: Matti, CC BY-SA 3.0.

For a self-contained beach holiday

Skala and the south-east

50 min from the airport · 1 h 20 to Myrtos

Skala has the longest beach on the island and a compact centre of restaurants, bars and mini markets behind it. You can land, drive fifty minutes, park the car and not move it for a week, which is what a lot of families want. The price is distance: Myrtos, Assos and Fiskardo are all a long way from here and doing them as day trips eats the days. Poros, the ferry port for Kyllini on the mainland, is twenty minutes up the coast.

  • Tesoro BluMid-range

    Tesoro Blu

    Outside Skala, adults only

    From

    $134

    A modern resort of 89 rooms and suites around a large pool, with a spa and two restaurants, and the beach and tavernas walkable.

    • Adults only
    • Large pool
    • Spa
    • Private-pool suites

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Apostolata Island Resort & SpaLuxury

    Apostolata Island Resort & Spa

    Above Skala

    From

    $123

    The five star of the south-east, a four-minute walk above Skala beach, with a spa and an airport shuttle for a surcharge. The one address here that is a resort rather than a room.

    • Five star
    • Spa
    • Walk to Skala beach
    • Airport shuttle

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Porto Skala Hotel VillageMid-range

    Porto Skala Hotel Village

    Skala waterfront

    On the waterfront in the village itself, a minute from the beach and beside the archaic temple. The family option that needs no car once you have parked.

    • On the waterfront
    • Walk to everything
    • Free parking

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
The harbour at Sami on Kefalonia, chartered yachts moored along the quay and a white ro-ro ferry berthed across the bay with the green mountains of Ithaca behind
Sami, with the Ithaca ferry on the far quay. The town is plain and it is the best-placed address on the island. Photo: GerritR, CC BY-SA 4.0.

For the caves, and for Ithaca

Sami and Agia Efimia

40 min from the airport · 35 min to Myrtos

Sami is a working port, rebuilt after the earthquake and plainer than the villages people photograph, and it is the most practical base if you came to see things. Melissani is five minutes away, Drogarati ten, Antisamos fifteen, and the boat to Ithaca takes about forty minutes. Agia Efimia, ten minutes north, is the prettier half of this coast: a harbour with no ferry traffic, good tavernas, swimming coves either side, and Myrtos fifteen minutes up the road.

  • Ionian Emerald ResortLuxury

    Ionian Emerald Resort

    Sami

    From

    $195

    The full-service hotel of this coast, with a big pool, gardens, maisonettes and some private-pool suites, and the waterfront of Sami walkable along the shore.

    • Large pool
    • Private-pool suites
    • Family-friendly
    • Walk into Sami

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Odyssey Boutique HotelLuxury

    Odyssey Boutique Hotel

    Agia Efimia

    From

    $200

    A boutique hotel on the harbour at Agia Efimia, by the beach and a step from the tavernas. The best room on this coast if you want the village rather than the port.

    • On the harbour
    • Boutique
    • Near the beach

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Meliti Waterfront SuitesLuxury

    Meliti Waterfront Suites

    Karavomylos

    From

    $265

    Suites on the water between Sami and Agia Efimia, five hundred metres from the Melissani cave. Nothing on the island puts you closer to the thing people drive an hour to see.

    • On the water
    • 500 m from Melissani
    • Suites

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Sami Beach HotelValue

    Sami Beach Hotel

    Sami

    From

    $51

    On the beach with a pool, tennis courts and a poolside bar. Straightforward, and well placed for the caves and the Ithaca boat.

    • On the beach
    • Pool and tennis
    • Near the ferry

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Penelope VillasMid-range

    Penelope Villas

    Sami

    From

    $142

    By the sea just outside Sami, two minutes from Karavomilos beach, with parking. The self-catering option for a family that wants the caves and the Ithaca boat nearby.

    • By the sea
    • Self-catering
    • Free parking

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
The harbour at Fiskardo on Kefalonia, small boats and a large motor yacht moored in front of the pastel waterfront houses, with the mountains across the channel behind
Fiskardo, the one village the 1953 earthquake left standing, and the harbour that fills with day boats through August. Photo: Pexels.

For the prettiest villages, at a distance

Fiskardo and Assos

1 h 30 from the airport · 35 min to Myrtos

Fiskardo still has its Venetian colours around a small yacht harbour, and the waterfront is a line of tavernas, cafés and boutiques. Assos, forty minutes south, is the other postcard: a hundred inhabitants on an isthmus below a ruined Venetian fort, with a bay on each side. Both are beautiful and both are far. Fiskardo is 56 km from the airport, an hour and a half of mountain road, and most of the island's sights are back the way you came. Stay here for two or three slow days in the north, not as a base for touring.

  • Emelisse Nature ResortLuxury

    Emelisse Nature Resort

    Above Emblisi bay, outside Fiskardo

    From

    $231

    The best-known hotel on Kefalonia: two pools, a spa, tennis, a swimming platform on the rocks, views to Ithaca and Lefkada, and a shuttle into the village.

    • Two pools
    • Spa and tennis
    • Villas with pools
    • Shuttle to Fiskardo

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Braunis HorioLuxury

    Braunis Horio

    Assos

    Villas above the bay with infinity pools looking at the entrance to the harbour. The splurge on this coast.

    • Villas
    • Infinity pools
    • Above the bay

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Faros SuitesMid-range

    Faros Suites

    Fiskardo, adults only

    Suites near the harbour, the middle way between the resort out on the headland and a studio on the front.

    • Adults only
    • Near the harbour
    • Suites

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • FiscardoStudiosMid-range

    FiscardoStudios

    Fiskardo harbour

    From

    $80

    Six studios with kitchenettes, steps from the waterfront. No facilities at all, which is the point: you walk out into the village.

    • Six studios
    • Kitchenettes
    • On the harbour
    • No pool

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Melmar View HotelMid-range

    Melmar View Hotel

    Magganos, near Fiskardo

    From

    $117

    Five minutes from Dafnoudi and seven from Kimilia, the two coves worth the walk in the far north, with an airport shuttle for a surcharge. Cheaper than the harbour, and you drive into it.

    • Near Dafnoudi
    • Free parking
    • Airport shuttle

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Studios Vrionis Panoramic SunsetValue

    Studios Vrionis Panoramic Sunset

    Kothreas, above Assos

    From

    $57

    Studios on the ridge above Assos with the sunset in front of them, and the cheapest bed in the north by a distance. You will need the car for everything.

    • Sunset views
    • Studios
    • Car essential

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
Xi beach on the Paliki peninsula of Kefalonia, orange-red sand running into shallow clear water with white clay cliffs and a line of parasols along the back of the beach
Xi, the red sand beach on the Paliki side, twenty minutes from Lixouri. Photo: Tigerente, CC BY 4.0.

For the quiet side, and lower prices

Lixouri and the Paliki peninsula

50 min by road · 20 min by boat to Argostoli

Lixouri is the second town, on the peninsula across the gulf from Argostoli, and the little ferry crosses in twenty to thirty minutes against a fifty minute drive round the water. The peninsula has farmland, vineyards and two of the best beaches on the island: Xi, with its red sand, and Petani on the exposed west side. Almost nobody flying in for a week stays here, which is the reason to. Check the last boat before you book a dinner in the capital.

  • Kymata Bohemian Beach ResortMid-range

    Kymata Bohemian Beach Resort

    Lixouri

    From

    $134

    The upmarket address on the peninsula, on the beach, for people who want the quiet side without giving up a resort.

    • On the beach
    • Pool
    • Quiet side

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Aura Boutique HotelMid-range

    Aura Boutique Hotel

    Lixouri

    From

    $72

    Small and mid-range in the town itself, close to the ferry ramp for Argostoli.

    • In the town
    • Near the ferry
    • Small

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Apollonion Asterias Resort and SpaLuxury

    Apollonion Asterias Resort and Spa

    Xi Beach

    The five star of the peninsula, ten minutes on foot from the red sand of Xi and from Megas Lakkos. Nothing else on this side is in its class.

    • Five star
    • Walk to Xi beach
    • Spa
    • Free parking

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability
  • Petani Bay Hotel - Adults OnlyMid-range

    Petani Bay Hotel - Adults Only

    Petani, adults only

    On the beach at Petani, on the exposed west side of the peninsula, adults only. The quietest good hotel on Kefalonia, and the furthest from a supermarket.

    • Adults only
    • On Petani beach
    • West coast

    Nightly rate from the Hotels.com catalogue

    See availability

Scores, review counts and photos are Booking.com data checked in September 2026, and the buttons open the property on Hotels.com. Rates move with the dates, so check them there.

What each base costs you in driving

This is the part the hotel lists leave out. Kefalonia has one mountain, Ainos, in the middle of it and roads that go round rather than over, so the map lies about every journey. Pick a base and see what a morning at Myrtos or Melissani actually involves.

Pick the base you are considering

Where you would sleep

Nothing is more than an hour and a quarter away, and nothing is on your doorstep either. The compromise base.

Kefalonia airport
15 min
9 km down the coast at Minies
The nearest sand
10 min
Lassi. There is no beach in town
Myrtos
45 min
North on the gulf road, then the hairpins below Divarata
Melissani cave
40 min
Across the waist of the island towards Sami
Fiskardo
about 1 h 15
The full length of the west coast road

Times are for a car outside July and August, and they match the drive times on our map of the island. Add a third in high season, when the coach traffic to Myrtos and the queue for the Melissani boats stretch every journey.

Myrtos beach on Kefalonia seen from the cliff road above, a white shingle crescent under limestone cliffs with turquoise shallows, catamarans anchored offshore and the headlands of the north coast beyond
Myrtos from the road down from Divarata. It is 15 minutes from Agia Efimia, 45 from Argostoli and an hour and twenty from Skala. Your hotel decides which of those mornings you get.

Where not to stay in Kefalonia

No part of this island is a bad place to spend a week. Several are a bad place for the week most people booking them have in mind, and the lists that rank for this question never say which.

  • Fiskardo or Assos, if you plan to tour the island

    They are the prettiest villages and the furthest from everything. From Fiskardo, Melissani is close to an hour, the airport an hour and a half, and Argostoli an hour and a quarter. Two or three nights here as the second half of a trip, yes. A base for a week of driving, no.

  • Skala, if the north is on your list

    The south-east corner is a fine self-contained resort with the longest beach on Kefalonia. It is also close to two hours from Fiskardo and an hour and twenty from Myrtos, so a north day trip costs most of the daylight.

  • Argostoli, if this is a swimming holiday

    The capital has a lagoon, a bridge and the best restaurants on the island. What it does not have is a beach. Lassi is ten minutes by road, which is either nothing or everything depending on whether you hired a car.

  • Anywhere but Argostoli without a car

    The green buses run for residents going into the capital and back, a few times a day, with almost nothing on Sundays and much less outside the summer. From any other base you will be paying for taxis or excursions.

  • Lixouri, if you have not checked the last ferry

    The crossing to Argostoli takes twenty to thirty minutes and the drive round the gulf takes fifty. Book a table in the capital on an evening when the boat stops early and you will discover the difference.

Couples, families, first visits and no car

Same island, five different answers. Each one below points at a base from the list above and names what you give up by choosing it.

Tell us who is travelling

This trip is

Stay at

Fiskardo and Assos, or Lourdata if you want a beach

The north is where Kefalonia is beautiful rather than convenient, and a couple is the only kind of traveller for whom that trade works. Two or three nights on the harbour at Fiskardo, dinner on the water, a boat to the coves in the afternoon.

The hotels there: Emelisse Nature Resort, FiscardoStudios, Braunis Horio at Assos. On the south coast, F Zeen at Lourdata is adults only.

What you give up: It is an hour and a half from the runway, and touring the island from there means driving back past everything twice.

Can you manage without a car

From Argostoli, for a few days, yes. Everywhere else, plan on driving. The green buses all radiate from the capital, they are timed for people who live here, and the services that would make a beach day work are the first to thin out in May and September. Melissani, Myrtos, Assos and Fiskardo are not realistic by bus, which is why most visitors collect a car at the airport on the way in.

If the car is only for part of the week, hire it for the days you go north rather than for the whole stay. Fleets on Kefalonia are small, though, and August sells out, so book early even for three days.

What a room on Kefalonia costs

Kefalonia is cheaper than the famous Cyclades and priced like the other Ionian islands. The aggregators advertise the island from about $55 to $70 a night at the bottom of the range, which buys a room in Argostoli, Sami or Lixouri outside the peak. The village moves the price as much as the star rating does: Lassi, Lourdata and Skala sit in the middle, and Fiskardo and Assos charge for the view, since the north has few rooms and everybody wants the same harbour in August. We do not quote a nightly rate per hotel, because it changes with the dates and we would be guessing.

The month moves the bill more than the village. June and September cost noticeably less than the peak, the sea in September is warmer than in June, and the roads are drivable instead of queued. Many hotels here open in May and close in October, and outside that window most of the island is shut, which is the real reason the shoulder season is the answer. If you are still weighing this island against its neighbours, the guide to the Ionian islands sets Kefalonia against Corfu, Zakynthos and Lefkada, and the equivalent list for Corfu shows how differently the two islands split up.

Questions people ask about staying on Kefalonia

What is the best part of Kefalonia to stay in?

Argostoli if it is your first visit, because the capital has the restaurants, the bus station and a drive of under an hour and a quarter to everything on the island. Lassi if you want sand at the end of the road, ten minutes from the capital and twelve from the runway. Sami if you came for Melissani, Antisamos and the boat to Ithaca. Fiskardo and Assos if the point is the north itself and you accept an hour and a half from the airport at each end. Skala for a self-contained beach week in the south-east. There is no single best part, only the part that matches what you want to do with the days.

What is the nicest town in Kefalonia?

Fiskardo, and it is not close. It is the only village the 1953 earthquake spared, so the Venetian colours are still standing around a small yacht harbour lined with tavernas and shops. Assos is the other one people photograph, a hundred inhabitants on an isthmus below a Venetian fort, with a bay on each side. Agia Efimia is the quiet harbour in between. Argostoli, rebuilt on a grid after the earthquake, is the useful town rather than the pretty one, and Sami is plainer still.

Which side of Kefalonia has the best beaches?

The west and the north-west. Myrtos, under white cliffs below Divarata, is the one on every photograph of the island, and Petani on the Paliki peninsula is the same kind of beach with a fraction of the coaches. Both are swimming beaches rather than lounging ones: the shingle shelves away fast and the sea is often lively. The south and the south-east have the sand you sit on all day, at Lassi, Lourdas, Skala and Xi, with sunbeds and tavernas behind them. The east coast around Sami has coves and Antisamos.

How many days is enough for Kefalonia?

A week, split between two bases. Four or five nights on the Argostoli side covers the capital, the beaches at Lassi, Melissani and Myrtos, and then two nights at Fiskardo or Assos give you the north without driving back over the mountain every evening. Five days from a single base works if you pick Sami or Argostoli and accept that the far corners are an hour or more away. Anything under four days and the island is too big: Skala to Fiskardo alone is close to two hours each way.

Where to avoid in Kefalonia?

Nowhere on Kefalonia is unpleasant, but several places are the wrong choice for the trip people book them for. Fiskardo and Assos if you want a beach holiday or plan to tour the island, because they are an hour and a half from the airport and most of the sights are back the way you came. Skala if the north is on your list at all. Argostoli if you came to swim, since the town has no beach. Lourdata if you are not up to a steep hill at the end of a beach day. And anywhere except Argostoli without a car, because the buses are built for residents rather than visitors.

Is it possible to travel around Kefalonia without a car?

Partly, and only from Argostoli. Every green bus line on the island starts there, the town itself is walkable, and Lassi's beaches are a short taxi ride away. But the timetable is built around residents going to the capital in the morning and home in the afternoon, so day trips to Myrtos, Assos and Fiskardo either do not work or eat the whole day. Most visitors hire a car, usually at the airport. A middle way is a few days in Argostoli on foot, then a car for the two or three days you go north.

Which is better, Corfu or Kefalonia?

Corfu if you want an old town, an easy transfer and the option of skipping the car. Its Venetian quarter is a UNESCO site, the airport is three kilometres from it, and the near coasts have a usable bus. Kefalonia if you want landscape over streets: it is bigger, greener, emptier, and its beaches and caves beat anything on Corfu, at the cost of driving to reach them. Families on a package and first-time visitors tend to be happier on Corfu. Walkers, drivers and people who have done the Greek islands before tend to prefer Kefalonia.

Which is better, Zakynthos or Kefalonia?

They are next to each other and they are not alike. Zakynthos is smaller, flatter in the middle, cheaper, and busier, with Laganas as its party resort and the Navagio shipwreck as its one unavoidable photograph. Kefalonia is nearly four times its size, mountainous, quieter and better for a car holiday, with Myrtos, Melissani and the north. If you want a short transfer and a resort, Zakynthos. If you want to drive somewhere different every day, Kefalonia. A small ferry links the two in season, from Pesada to Agios Nikolaos.

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